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UNA CITTA’ VOLUTA E FONDATA DA UNA DONNA: ODESSA

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di Nataliia Chechykova*

Odessa è la città che non ti aspetti, è vero che in ogni guida viene definita come la perla del Mar Nero, ma certamente nessun turista potrebbe pensare che questa definizione corrisponda alla vera natura di questo meraviglioso sito. Per un italiano non ci può essere nulla di meglio che visitarla per mettersi finalmente in testa che la sua Italia è stata nei secoli, e non soltanto quelli lontani dell’impero romano, una grande civiltà, come si può definire ora una vera e propria influencer ante litteram.

Camminando per le strade di Odessa hai subito la sensazione di stare a casa: l’architettura dei palazzi, i fregi sui meravigliosi portoni, ma soprattutto la vita che scopri nei cortili è “italiana”, forse di quell’Italia di qualche decennio fa, di cui tanto abbiamo nostalgia. La gente vive questo spazio comune come se fosse davvero il proprio, i bambini giocano liberamente sotto il controllo vigile delle proprie mamme che si affacciano dalle finestre per tenerli d’occhio, i gatti si crogiolano al sole, la “gara” per chi ha le piante più belle e le aiuole meglio curate è davvero una cosa seria per gli abitanti dei caseggiati. E poi quando nelle serate d’estate la temperatura incomincia a essere rovente, il piacere di stare insieme si concretizza con grandi e belle tavolate che raccolgono fino a tarda notte tutti gli abitanti dei palazzi. Forse tutto ciò deriva dal fatto che in gran parte del centro della città gli appartamenti sono piccoli e spesso bui perché sono ancora tanti quelli che vivono in quelle che in tempo erano “le Comuni”, che oggi non raccolgono una famiglia intera per ogni stanza, ma che ancora in molti casi soprattutto per i cittadini più anziani è l’unica realtà abitativa possibile visto che le pensioni sono a livelli di pura sussistenza. E poi tutta la città è pulita: non una cartaccia per la strada, non un viale pieno di foglie cadute dai grandi alberi che nel centro storico sono una costante per ogni via. Immaginate che un esercito di vecchi signori e signore ogni mattina all’alba spazza le strade, cura le aiuole, insomma un luogo nel quale, guerra o non guerra, il vivere comune è ancora un valore rispettato.

Allora che dire, Odessa è una città italiana? Onestamente la definizione non è assolutamente lontana dalla realtà, e non solo perché la maggior parte degli architetti che l’hanno costruita erano proprio italiani, magari assolutamente sconosciuti in patria, ma che sulle rive del mar Nero hanno dato dimostrazione di una capacità costruttiva, di una bellezza di linee e di una scelta di colori delle facciate che davvero bisogna domandarsi se questo luogo non abbia in sé una sorta di capacità di far risvegliare il “meglio” nelle persone.

Per non parlare della vita culturale degli Odessiti. Teatri? Onestamente è difficile sceglierne uno: il magnifico Teatro dell’opera (dove in qualche sala prove nacque addirittura la mitica “o’sole mio”), un imponente teatro che ospita l’Operetta e ora anche i musicals, una grande Sala filarmonica e poi un Teatro stabile del dramma ucraino e un altro del Teatro russo e, anche se per un italiano potrebbe essere inconcepibile, anche un grande Circo, non così come lo si concepisce in Italia ma una grande costruzione in muratura dove gli spettacoli si susseguono tutto l’anno. E poi vi è mai capitato di vedere un balletto al mattino, un altro al pomeriggio e uno ancora la sera, beh a Odessa ciò accade e vi consiglio di prenotare con ampio anticipo perché altrimenti troverete solo un posto nella “piccionaia”.

E vogliamo parlare dei Musei di questa città? La Fondazione Marisa Bellisario ha premiato Iryna Glebova, Vicedirettrice del Museo dell’Arte Occidentale e Orientale ma il suo è solo uno dei tanti musei presenti in città che come da antica tradizione ottocentesca ha sempre diviso le pinacoteche e le gallerie tra quelle dedicate all’arte del Paese (ovviamente questa è una definizione molto ampia che per comodità di comprensione possiamo riferire a tutti gli artisti originari nell’antico Impero Zarista) da quelle dedicate al “resto del mondo”. E in tal senso, il Museo delle Belle Arti è un mirabile esempio della stratificazione dell’arte ucraina, russa, anche di tutte quelle regioni più lontane dell’Impero zarista prima dell’Unione sovietica. E poi il grande e fornitissimo Museo archeologico che raccoglie tutti i ritrovamenti provenienti dagli scavi delle antiche città costiere greche e romane. E ancora una vastità di piccoli musei da quello della letteratura o al più piccolo Museo della storia della città, e poi per finire le Biblioteche comunali, che davvero sono il cuore pulsante dei cittadini e da sempre il ritrovo della “gente di Odessa”. Una specie di Cenacolo culturale per il quale tutti gli Odessiti sono passati e dove tutte le idee hanno sempre potuto trovare modo di circolare liberamente.

Mie care Amiche non so cosa dire, avrei voluto parlare del nostro Museo e in particolare della ricerca sulla “Cattura di Cristo”, che oramai può essere ampiamente riconosciuta come di mano di Caravaggio, ma appena inizio a ricordare la mia città la penna corre da sola, perciò saranno, se ne avrete pazienza argomenti per una prossima volta. Sinceramente non potevo non spiegare da dove e perché questa dolce, esile ma fortissima donna, la nostra Iryna Glebova, Premio Internazionale dell’ultima edizione, tragga la sua dolcezza e soprattutto il suo gusto del bello, e quel piacere così naturale di svolgere la sua professione: è nata e cresciuta nella meravigliosa città di Odessa. Perciò non possiamo che attendervi numerose quando a guerra finita potremo riaprire il nostro Museo per mostrarvi la nostra “musa”: Odessa.

 

*Storica dell’arte, consulente per l’arte italiana del Museo di Odessa, la sua ricerca sulla Cattura di Cristo ha riaperto il dibattito internazionale sull’attribuzione della tela al Caravaggio.

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